Sunday 22 May 2016

Half-lap Day 19: Uluru

I had been worried that I’d be grumpy for the whole time we were at Uluru, but when I woke up the next morning I felt much better and excited to be here. I was up well before sunrise, so I wandered up to the lookout at the campground (I couldn’t find the path in the dark, so went over the sand dune for a little way until I hit the path). It was a cloudy morning, and the sky to the east was soon glowing red, so brightly it looked like it was on fire. Uluru looked pretty cool slowly emerging from the dark, and the sunlight on Kata Tjuta was impressive. There were about 20 people at the lookout, and everyone was completely silent, it was pretty cool. We watched the sky in it’s various stages of red – once the sun hit the horizon though it was completely behind the clouds, so there was no lighting up of Uluru, the sky was suddenly grey and uniform. Still a spectacular morning though.

I started chatting to another lady up there, we compared cameras then talked about our trip and our kids, she also has a Caitlin, about a year younger than mine. When we compared itineraries they were remarkably similar for the next few days.

Back down to the tent where I pottered around and everyone gradually emerged from bed. LiAM and Millie and I played cards for a while. We took our time getting ready, and headed over to Uluru around 10.30. Our plan was to do the base walk around Uluru, and we were pleased it was cloudy and quite a bit cooler than the previous couple of days. Being right up close to Uluru was impressive as always – it is SO big and it constantly surprises me, I think my brain can’t comprehend its size and so shrinks it a bit in my memory. We started at the Mala parking area and walked to the right – I wanted to make sure we at least got as far as the Mutjilipu waterhole, so we went the direction that would get us there the quickest.

At some places the rock was almost sheer – looking up to the top was incredible. In others there were folds or caves in the rock, it kept changing constantly and, where it is permitted, I took loads of photos. Some areas are culturally sensitive and it is requested that no one takes photos there – because the place is part of the story and belief of the local people, it is supposed to only be viewed in it’s actual location. I enjoyed looking at those parts too, and imagining the generations of people using these areas for their ceremonies and learning. We ran in to the lady I’d met in the morning, and met each other’s families and had a bit of a chat.

The first third or so of the walk was through trees, it was quite green on that side. The waterhole was very cool, there was still a trickle of water running in to it. We saw water in one other place and the rest was dry. We saw lots of different types of ants, and several bugs – there really haven’t been a lot of animals around in this region, compared to other places we’ve been. LiAM saw a kangaroo. The last 2 thirds of the walk was mainly further away from the rock – so we got a longer perspective of the view, which Tony preferred, while I preferred the bit where we were close up and could see lots of detail. The middle third of the walk seemed to take forever – we could see features on the rock which didn’t seem to get any closer for a very long time, and for some of it we were more exposed to the sun, which was occasionally peeking through the clouds. Tony gave piggy backs to each of the kids at different times which helped them get a bit further. After a while Caitlin offered to carry Millie in the sling, so we set them up and Caitlin walked a long way with Millie on her back, we were all quite impressed.

This side of Uluru was less green but had different flowers – lots of banksias on this side. We played games to pass the time – first person to see an ant (easy), first person to get a fly on their face (also easy – except for Caitlin who was wearing her fly net), first person to see a bird – less easy. Right near the end of the walk we went back close to the rock and were able to go in a little cave and see more of the folds. There was a short walk to a gorge but everyone was just keen to get back to the car so we skipped that.

Back at the car we sat on the ground for a while and recovered our energy. The walk was 10.6km and we did it in about 5 hours, so a huge effort all around. It was only 90 minutes until sunset so we decided to stay and watch that. We popped in to the cultural centre and bought a couple of pieces of cake to share, then drove to the sunset viewing area. We ate the cake in the car, then Tony made us all hot drinks while we waited for the sun to set.

There was blue sky behind the rock but it was cloudy in the west, so there wasn’t direct sunlight on Uluru. It still looked so amazing though, rising up out of the desert by itself. About 20 minutes before the sun set, it broke through the clouds briefly and Uluru was lit up by a brilliant orange light. It only lasted a minute or two, then the sun slipped behind clouds again, and it was amazing. Very exciting to see. The sunset itself was again a bit of a fizzer as the usual gradual colour change didn’t happen, although we could see a bit of a change as the light dropped. The moon rose behind Uluru shortly after the sun set, which was cool to see.


Back to camp and we were all exhausted. I went to have a shower and Tony was going to cook some chicken that I’d bought at a greatly reduced price that afternoon – when he opened it, it didn’t smell great so we ditched that idea and had soup and noodles for dinner instead. Once we’d eaten we were fairly quickly in to bed and read for a very short time.






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